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Ireland - Faroe Islands Juni 2006

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Anmeldedatum: 17.08.2005
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BeitragVerfasst am: 08.12.2009 11:39    Titel: Ireland - Faroe Islands Juni 2006 Antworten mit Zitat


Visit from Ireland to Faroe Islands

Eugene Lambe, Kinvara, Ireland

08.00 hrs. Our course was 61 degrees to clear rocks and
breakers 3 miles south of Akraberg, the southernmost tip of the island of Suderoy in the Faeroes group. The tides around the islands run with great force and local knowledge is necessary in planning movement in these waters and although we had a tidal chart we got caught in a stream and took a long time to round the tip of the island. At one point we were only making 1.5kts with the engine at 2000 rpm. The sea was calm, we were still motoring and so decided to make landfall and clear into Tvoroyri on the island of Suderoy as we would have to battle a strong tide to make it to Thorshavn.
We docked in Tvøroyri at 00.00 hrs and were ‘boarded’ by three locals,
Edmund (owner of the Tvøroyri hotel), Paul and Johann. We made tea, gave them some Irish biscuits and had good fun.

Noon position 61 05 239N / 7 35.544W - Day’s run 66.7 miles
Total distance from Westport 569.8 miles

Faroe Islands - Saturday 17

Tvøroyri and boat houses Friday 16 June 2006

So different when I sailed to Iceland some years ago and caught cod like we would catch mackerel in the summer months in Galway Bay.

Erik from Porkeri, (marielu@post.olivant.fo) a small village at the
entrance to the fjord, called by. He seems to be interested in bringing visitors on tours and he insisted on taking me along on some trips. We drove to see the coal mines near Hvalba to the north of Suderoy and to the beach where locals had recently killed 66 pilot whales (Grind) for their own consumption. When spotted at sea they are herded into a landlocked bay and killed and shared out among all the people in the
community. The meat is red and very like a thick beefsteak. Erik was saying that people are telling the Faeroese that they should not be killing the whales but he explained to me that it is a way of life for them. “It would be like” he said “asking the Irish to stop eating potatoes”. I got his point.

The quality of the coal was poor and in olden times peat was used also.
There were no donkeys or ponies on the island so it was a lot of hard work transporting peat from the mountain sides to the homes below. They believe that St Brendan brought sheep to the Faeroes in the 6 th
century and there is a bay in the island of Esteroy (to the north) called Brendan’s Bay. The Faeroese are adamant that they have a big Celtic connection through these early settlers and that some of the modern
place names derive from Gaelic.

Oddmar Samuelsen whom I met in Thorshavn believes that the island Mykines is a corruption of ‘Muc Inis’ a common name for an island in Ireland). Erik has also found some sites nearby that he thinks are early Celtic sites and has been in touch with some archaeologists in TCD to come and look at them.

Even in summer the place looks as if it would be hard to eke out a living
and in olden times one would wonder how these early settlers survived. No doubt fishing was good and seabirds were and are plentiful. An ingenious method of trapping puffins was used until quite recently. A raft was set in the sea with a dead puffin on a spike to act as a decoy and elaborate snares made of horse hair covered the raft surface and quickly claimed any puffin who landed on the raft. Young puffins are still taken in large quantities using a net on a very long handle and catching them
when they are returning to their nests on the sea cliffs. I was assured that it was a skilful game and that I probably wouldn’t catch many if I tried it. They seem such beautiful creatures to kill bur I suppose survival comes first.

Thursday 22 June 2006

The summer equinox has just passed and there is little or no darkness at this latitude. The fields and slopes, especially along the drains, are ablaze with bright yellow marsh marigolds (Caltha palustris). They seem gigantic here, probably because of the long bright summer days.

I left Tvøroyri and sailed to the town of Vagur at the tip of the next fjiord to the south. Erik called by and with two German customers and we went to Beinisvord, a
striking 495m high cliff on the windward side of Suderoy. .There is an interesting
lighthouse, Akraberg, nearby. It has a loud double foghorn driven by compressed air.
When we got back to Vagur the town was gearing up for a festival and I played
a little for a choral group at Erik’s suggestion. Most had never seen uilleann pipes and
they seemed well impressed. They presented me with a gift of their recently launched CD.
The inter island ferry arrived and droves of people came off it wheeling
traditional rowing boats for the weekend regatta. It was quite a sight and the boats were very skilfully constructed.

Friday 23 Friday 23

I spent a good bit of the day trying to unblock my Motorola mobile phone so that I could use a local SIM card in it. I made calls to Ireland and calls to Denmark but nothing seemed to work. This new technology is amazing but equally frustrating sometimes. Also my laptop had crashed a few days ago and I lost a lot of stuff. I did have back ups for most (like Cmaps, etc) but was able to borrow some discs of weatherfax programs and such from a French yacht and re-install them.

Saturday 24 June 2006

Erik called and took me home to meet his wife Marie-Luise and a few
neighbours. They had organised a very formal tea, cakes and some local firewater (which I cleverly dodged). They discussed and demonstrated the old Faeroese tradition of ‘saga singing’ and dancing. It was a very enjoyable visit. Erik and a friend who lives in the village took me to the local museum (which was unlocked!) and we had a look at the artefacts from a bygone era. Especially interesting was the use of the whale stomachs which were cleverly crafted into buoys for setting nets.
We drove to a hillside near Hov to see the unmarked grave of a Viking chief and then we took a long walk into a beautiful place that has a waterfall and that Erik thinks was an early Celtic site. He told me that St Patrick’s Day is celebrated in two places in the Faeroes. One is in Porkeri and the other is the island of Mykines (MucInis?) also said to have Celtic connections.

(In the afternoon one of the sea urchin spines that I got in the Azores
just over a year ago came out. .There are still quite a few left and I’m afraid they will have to dissolve eventually).

Sunday 25 June 2006

I left Vagur at 03.00 hrs. in order to catch the north going stream
to the Faeroese capital Thorshavn. With the assistance of a fair beam wind which drove Fánaí at 7 knots I made landfall at Thorshavn harbour at 10.00 hrs. just before the onset of the south going current. Thorshavn, in line with most of its like northern counterparts tends to be expensive. A cup of coffee costs the equivalent of 4 euros and berthage was 12 euros per day. Having said that, it is literally in the middle of the town, in the old district of Tinganes, a stone’s throw from the grass covered house
(Logting) in which the government sits.

On the plus side there was a free internet service at the library a couple
of hundred metres away and I was able to send some emails. I had given up trying to get my mobile phone to unblock. Anyway even if I had succeeded, there were no mobile phone cards available on any of the islands. They had been ordered but would not be delivered for another 3 weeks! Obviously 21 st. century communications have not quite reached the Faeroes islands as yet.

Tuesday 27 June – Saturday July 2006

The job today was to remove the old, beautifully engineered though
leaky, toilet and replace it with a modern Lavac that I got delivered to Westport earlier in the trip. As usual it was a lot more work than I thought. I priced some odourless 38mm hose for the job. They wanted 40 euros a metre for it so I went searching for alternatives! Eventually I got it fitted and working and went to the local yacht club premises where I was warmly welcomed. Johannes a local teacher had developed an animated program for modelling the currents around the islands and he
gave me a copy. I met an interesting man, Jorlief Kurberg (Dalavegur 63,FO 100 Thorshavn,Faeroe Islands) and we spent a while talking of catching puffins, whaling, rowing, languages and more.

There was a solo woman sailor (Isispurcell@gmail.com) there from Sweden on a smallish 30 footer. She had planned to sail on to Iceland but in the meantime met an American lad, Jessie, and she decided to get married and sell the boat. I was asked to play the pipes outside the registry office for the event and as a result we all got our faces in the local paper.

Another character (Oddmar Samuelsen,Aarvegur 1, PO box 23, FO
100 Thorshavn) landed on board and seemed to adopt me. He was there before I arose in the mornings to wake me and ask if I wanted to come for a drive with him. He took me to south Stremoy, overlooking Sandoy and pointed out Patrick’s bay (named, he claims after St. Patrick). He is very angry that Faroese history has been revisionist and has attempted to wipe out its early Celtic origins, but he claims that the influence of the earliest Celtic settlers is seen in some of the place names still. He claims that the island of Mykines, for example, is a corruption of the Gaelic ‘Muc Inis’, a common name for islands still in Ireland.

Eugene Lambe, Kinvara, Ireland

http://www.eugenelambe.com/ Homepage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIEQBAQfMt4 Youtube

Zuletzt bearbeitet von Erik am 08.12.2009 16:00, insgesamt 2-mal bearbeitet
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Anmeldedatum: 16.12.2007
Beiträge: 1188
Wohnort: Deutschland, Nähe Hannover

BeitragVerfasst am: 08.12.2009 15:13    Titel: Antworten mit Zitat

Alle Wege führen nach Porkeri! Very Happy
Da hast Du einen interessanten Typen getroffen, einen segelnden Irish pipe- and flute maker, - und der hätte keinen besseren Guide für Suðuroy finden können!
Ich habe auch noch einen feinen Video über Eugene Lambe gefunden...
"es ischt beweglich rund um die färörer herrrum"

"Bundin er bátleysur maður"
"Bound is a man who has no boat"
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